Image credit: goodreads.com
The Thoughtful Dresser, by Linda Grant, is one of the best books I've read about clothing and its importance in our lives. I cannot recommend this book enough. Though Grant does not suggest we keep every article of clothing we've ever owned, she acknowledges the role they play in telling our stories:
"If you were to gather together all the clothes you have every owned in all your life. . . you would have your autobiography. The clothes we wear, they comfort and protect us; they allow us to be who we want to be. They tell others what we want them to hear. We come to understand whether or not we can depend on them."
I like it when clothing plays an important role in a book. This week I picked up the novel Mr. Rosenblum Dreams in English, in which the title character is determined to become a full-fledged English gentleman after leaving his native Germany just before WWII. He relies on a pamphlet given to immigrants called While You Are in England: Helpful Information and Friendly Guidance for Every Refugee, following its instructions to the letter.
Mr. Rosenblum decides that getting a bespoke suit from Savile Row is an important step in his attempt to fully assimilate into (high class) English society. Here is the rich, wonderful description of his experience at Henry Poole on Savile Row:
The store smelled deliciously of cedar wood, and the tailor called him "Sir," measured his small frame without a sneer, and the suit was delivered twelve weeks later, wrapped in crepe paper inside a pearlescent box with the Henry Poole crest emblazoned in gold. His pattern was to be kept in the company vaults alongside those of Churchill, Gladstone,and Prince Albert. When he put on the suit, he felt taller than his five foot three inches, his bald head appeared to shine less and his nose felt, well, less pronounced.
So far, his suit has not helped him achieve one of his goals, but I'm looking forward to seeing him use his "sheer tenacity" to get what he wants.
Somehow, in the midst of all the hype surrounding the book Women in Clothes last year,
I missed reading Worn Stories, by Emily Spivak. You can read what the New York Times had to say about it here.
Worn Stories describes itself as a collection of "sartorial memoirs." I found myself flipping through it, choosing what to read by the clothing pictured. I wondered what someone would have to say about a canary yellow Hermes coat; why a person would hold onto a bright blue hoodie sweatshirt; and who wore the little hat with the feather and striped band. I'm so glad I happened to read what Susan Orlean had to say about the dress and pants ensemble that accompanied her memoir. She describes her quest for the perfect uniform, and how over the years, she thinks she has found it, only to start her quest all over again. I think a lot of us can relate to her musings:
"It's a temporary delusion that comes over me with regularity--a belief that by wearing this perfect thing, I will look right and feel good no matter what. When I'm in it, I totally believe I have found my look, my personal style. I understand that fashion, by definition, is a changing thing, and so is one's body. " (My bold font added for emphasis.)
Subscribing to blogs has often baffled me. I don't have a firm grasp on what an RSS feed is, or if I want someone's blog to go to one of my email accounts or to Facebook, or . . . UGH! I wonder how many others share my bewilderment over the how-tos of subscribing to blogs. Finally, my blog is now easy to receive via email. Eureka! Simply enter your email address under "subscribe" in the upper right hand corner here, click subscribe, and you will receive regular doses of Wardrobe Wisdom. Hooray!
Image credit: Parnassusbooks.com
I found this interview with photographer Nigel Barker, very interesting. He has insightful things to say about the modeling world's limited definition of "beauty," and how that world is changing.
More can be learned about Barker's new book, Models of Industry, here, on one of my favorite book/reading websites, Parnassusbooks.com.
On Saturday I had fun at my favorite local bookstore, Chaucer's in Santa Barbara. Four books on my two favorite topics made their way home with me: Stacy London's The Truth about Style, How to Tie a Scarf 33 Styles published by Potter Style, The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz, and SB cooking expert Pascale Beale's Spring cookbook.
I'd been wanting to purchase London's 2012 book since it was published. I loved watching her "What Not to Wear" show with Clinton Kelly, mostly agreeing with her style advice and her insistence that paying attention to one's appearance can affect one's life in deep ways. In her new book, London states her intentions: "My book doesn't only deal with how to dress well, and why you should, but it examines why you don't We all put obstacles in our own path toward personal style. If we understood why we constructed these practical and emotional obstacles, we might move beyond them to healthier, happier perceptions of ourselves and, ideally, a better sense of self-esteem." Bravo, Stacy!
I'll let you know how I'm finding the book as I read, and I am quite certain I will have some insightful Stacy quotes to share.
I was so pleased to catch this National Public Radio story about a new book called Women in Clothes. I learned from this story that "The book collects essays, conversations, pictures and testimonials from
more than 600 women talking about how clothes shape or reflect them as
human beings." It was refreshing to hear women talk openly of their love and aversion to fashion and looking good. Let me know if you read this book. I am eager to devour its pages!
Sometimes I am struck by a brilliant topic for my blog. Inspiration can hit when I see a spectacular outfit during my day or while I drift off to sleep. Other times I take my hat off to those who have written well about topics that interest me and my Wardrobe Wisdom blog readers. Here are a few of the best ones I have recently come across:
From the Huffington Post:
What 40+ women should have in their closets;
How to build wardrobe capsules, from CapsuleWardrobes.com; and
just about every post from my new favorite blog, Wardrobe Oxygen.
I cannot urge you enough to read this insightful book by Linda Grant. Here is an excerpt, ending her chapter about some exuberant clothing styles following World War II:
"Out of suffering comes the demand for pleasure. To love clothes is to embrace life in all its joyous variety, even if all you ever do is turn the pages of a magazine and long for fairyland, crave couture ballgowns you will never own. We all need daydreams. One lipstick alone can go a long, long way."
The Thoughtful Dresser "celebrates the pleasure of adornment and is an elegant meditation on our relationship with what we wear and the significance of clothes as the most intimate but also public expression of our identity."
Image Credit: geology.com
Somehow I missed the launch of a marvelous feature in the Huffington Post, United States in Style. It is so cool! Columnist Anya Strzemien described the feature this way: "I'm fascinated by all things American. And because I also love style, I've become obsessed (there's really no other word to describe it) with documenting the styles that are indigenous to different regions of this country--whether it's hair bows and madras pants in the South, cowboy hats and bolo ties in Colorado, Vans and Ray-Bans in the California valley or sailor bracelets and cable-knit sweaters in Connecticut. The clothes we wear not only tell the story of who we are and where we come from, but where we are headed." Now that I am dialed into this terrific element of Huffington Post Style, I have binged on the videos and am hungry for more. Enjoy!
My family gave me a Kindle for my birthday this month. At first I was less than excited since I favor old-school books, hardback or paperback. But after using it for a few weeks, I am quite attached to my Kindle. The book I am currently reading on it is wholly entertaining: A Vintage Affair by Isabel Wolff. This novel's protagonist is a vintage clothing store owner, and the plot revolves around her relationships with men, a dying woman, and her parents. Any lover of vintage clothing will be enamored with this book, since the author clearly knows her sartorial history and goes into great detail about the garments. She also understands the feelings people have for their clothing and how what we wear, or want to wear, affects us. According to my Kindle, I am 85% finished with the book. I will be sad when the story ends.
I have been reading Tim Gunn's latest book, Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible, over the last couple of months. As usual, he dispenses brilliant, thoughtful advice about dressing one's best. In addition, he cites historical time periods and events to explain how we came to wear what we do. It's been a fascinating read and I plan to write more about it in the future. For now, here is a sample of Gunn's wisdom:
"One of my favorite dresses of all time is the Diane von Furstenberg patterned wrap dress. . . The wraparound dress style, which dates back thousands of years (think of the kimono!)--and was popularized in America in the 1960s--is still popular today. You just need to make sure you fit the shoulders, and the rest of the dress takes care of itself. It makes women look feminine, put together, and at ease in the world"
Photo credit: Levi's website
A friend sent me this remarkable post in which a woman tries on various Old Navy and Gap jeans, painstakingly comparing them with other brands to see which fit the best. I recommend you read the entire piece and carefully peruse the great accompanying photos. I appreciate her pointing out why they look good or not, though I don't agree with her assessment of the Long and Lean style. I thought they looked alright and not Mom-jeany at all on her.
Is it time for a new pair of jeans? I had great luck at the Levi's store in Santa Barbara recently. And I have purchased some fabulous fitting designer jeans at a number of consignment stores ( Renaissance, Lola, and The Closet). I love denim but cannot justify spending $200 on a pair of jeans. Still, I don't think the denim in Old Navy and the Gap jeans wears well.
Photo credit: vivafashionblog
Isabel Toledo is a Cuban-born designer who has been on the fashion scene since introducing her first collection in 1985. She is an original, designing distinctive, often architectural clothing making deliberate choices to live a certain way with her artist husband, Ruben Toledo. Her book, Roots of Style, Weaving Together Life, Love, and Fashion was an eye-opening read. This piece from Harper's Bazaar, offers a nice snapshot of Isabel Toledo and her husband. I learned a great deal about how Toledo lives as an artist, and how her dedication to her craft has paid off. This book also gave me insight into what goes into creating a clothing collection from the ground floor up.
Here are some of my favorite quotes from the book which go way beyond fashion:
Fashion design moves forward when people think for themselves and dress their own minds and moods.
A person with true style is displaying a fertile and thinking mind.
(This is what Wardrobe Wisdom is about!) People with style dress in harmony with their inner, most authentic selves.
Clothing can help the wearer give voice to her emotions, whether she is feeling vulnerable, sensual, confident, powerful, or playful. Choices in color, texture, materials, and the cut of our clothes can all add up to a composite portrait of our inner psychological makeup.
Fashion is much more than just clothes. It's about finding and defining yourself, and communicating your personality and individuality to other people through your outward appearance.
If you can stay in love and keep your enthusiasm for what you choose to do with your life, you are living well indeed.
Creativity stalks every profession. It is just waiting to happen.
[Couture garments] are masterpieces of engineering and craft that are not always evident from the outside, but created for the wearer's ease and comfort as well as the splendor of the total effect.
It is far easier sometimes to find an exquisite dress for a special occasion than it is to figure out your daily look.
Intelligent clothes earn a place of honor in your wardrobe, because these are the items you reach for again and again.
A great design has no expiration date.
She offers profound fashion and life advice throughout the book, but the conclusion is especially brilliant and useful.
I learn something each time I re-read my fashion and style books. Lately I have been looking over Nina Garcia's Style Strategy. Here are some of her tips that I find particularly useful:
1. Any [clothing] you know that accentuates your best physical trait also accentuates your self confidence.
2. A great shoe can make a $20 outfit look like couture, and a poorly constructed shoe can make couture look like a cheap knockoff.
3. When you love what you are wearing, it shows.
4. Splurge on tailored classics; indulge in inexpensive trends.
5. Comfort in your own skin is the core of style.
6. The belief held by most nutritionists--that if you deprive yourself, you will fall off the wagon and binge--holds true for shopping, too. Shop smart!
7. Playfulness and humor are just as vital to fashion as good taste.
I applaud Garcia's inclusion of this quote from Tim Gunn: "Fit is the most neglected aspect of how we dress: that is, most people wear clothes that are too big or too small or a combination of both."
Photo Credit: Gap.com
I was delighted to come across this column, written by a Ventura high school student (and the daughter of one of my clients!). She observed what her peers were wearing, took photos, and described current trends. Well done!
Photo Credit: From CNN's website
Fashion Week has been all over the style sections of newspapers, and front row photos of attendees and the designers' creations have been featured on numerous blogs. I appreciate Diana Pemberton-Sikes description of fashion week. I think I would like to experience it one day, perhaps in Paris!
Photo Credit: Julian Scott, Getty Images (The Commons)
I don't just mean that coveting a gorgeous dress can make you crazy. What I am talking about is a study led by Adam D. Galinsky on the effects of clothing on cognitive processes. Joshua I. Davis, an assistant professor of psychology who was not involved in the study said, "I love the idea of trying to figure out why, when we put on certain clothes, we might more readily take on a role and how that might affect our basic abilities." An article on this study appeared in the New York Times this spring.
The study is rife with plural forms of the words "may" "might," "appears," and "could be," making it clear that no definitive results were found. However, in three experiments, those students who wore white lab or doctors' coats, as opposed to street clothes, "showed the greatest improvement in attention." Furthermore, Galinsky stated "Clothes invade the body and brain, putting the wearer into a different psychological state."
In short, this study confirmed what many of us have known all along: clothing has a deep and profound influence on how we think. Do not underestimate the power of clothing.
Fun facts about the woman pictured above: She is Mary Van Rensselaer Buell (1893-1969). In 1919, Van Rensselaer Buell (1893-1969) became the first woman to earn Ph.D. in biochemistry at the University of Wisconsin.
Photo Credit: guardian.co.uk
I cannot get over the physiques and the swimsuits worn by the Olympic swimmers. Before this month, I had not heard of Leanne Shapton, "the eighth fastest breaststroker in Canada in 1988," art director at the New York Times, illustrator, and novelist. After reading a review of Shapton's memoir titled Swimming Studies, I know a few things about her. What captured my attention was the photographs she included of her bathing suits, racing and vintage. The suits shown in the book review range from a groovy 1960s or early 70s suit with a high neck, to a cool gray bikini that would be in style on any beach today. Her meditations on what she wore, along with the life she led, sound like a good summer read.
I just finished reading The Collection, a novel by Gioia Diliberto. Any lover of fashion history, especially regarding the great fashion houses of Paris in the early 1900's, would love this book! Here is a description from the Amazon site: Isabelle Varlet, charming and naïve, comes from a long line of seamstresses in a small town in France. A series of unfortunate events and her prodigious sartorial talent carry her to Paris, which in the wake of World War I is electric with new life. When Isabelle takes a job in the atelier of Coco Chanel, the rising star of haute couture, she finds herself in the heart of a glamorous and ruthless world filled with arrogant designers, handsome men, beautiful women, and fashion thieves who prowl Paris hoping to steal designs before they hit the runway.
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